Heat transfer vinyl (HTV) is a thin material with an adhesive that activates with heat. You can use it to personalize T-shirts, bags, aprons and hoodies, and you don't need a heat press \u2014 a regular household iron will do. In this tutorial we show you how to do it so the design lasts through washing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Heat transfer vinyl has two sides: the shiny, clear carrier sheet and the matte side with the adhesive. The vinyl goes on the cutting mat shiny side down, so the machine cuts the adhesive side. That means the design always has to be cut in mirror image: in Cricut Design Space the option is called \u201cMirror\u201d, in Silhouette Studio it is \u201cFlip Horizontally\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cut only through the vinyl, not the carrier sheet. If the machine cuts the carrier too, lower the pressure or the blade depth. Before a bigger project, cut a small test shape.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Lift the edge of the excess material and slowly peel away everything that isn't part of the design. Small inner pieces, such as the centers of the letters \u201co\u201d and \u201ca\u201d, are easy to pick out with a weeding pin. The design stays on the clear carrier sheet, and now it reads the right way round.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The garment should be clean and dry. Moisture and wrinkles stop the adhesive from bonding, so first press the spot where the design will go for about 5 seconds. New garments are best washed beforehand without fabric softener.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
An ironing board is usually too soft and springy, so it's better to work on a table covered with a folded towel or pillowcase.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Place the design carrier side up, so the adhesive side touches the fabric. On an adult T-shirt, the top of a chest design usually sits 7\u201310 cm below the neckline. The carrier sheet is slightly tacky, so the design won't shift.<\/p>\n\n\n\n